Glass-door cooler in Torrance: the coil froze solid because a stuck relay wouldn't let the compressor stop
The coil was buried in ice. Melting it was the easy part. The real question was why it froze, and the answer turned out to be a relay stuck in the on position.
In this guide
A cooler that stopped cooling, and a coil you couldn’t see
This call was for a glass-door commercial cooler in Torrance that had stopped cooling. On this unit, everything that makes the cold sits in the bottom compartment, the compressor and the evaporator coil included.
The coil has its own insulated box down there. When I opened the compartment, all I could see was a block of ice.
A coil encased in ice can’t pass air. The fans keep blowing against it and the box warms up, even with the compressor running.
Thawing the coil
I melted the ice with steam. That takes longer than chipping at it, but it doesn’t bend fins or put a hole in a tube. On this cooler that matters more than usual. It runs on R290, a flammable refrigerant, and the label on the unit says in capital letters not to puncture the refrigerant tubing.

A thawed coil only buys time. If the cause is still there, the ice comes back, so the real work was finding out why it froze.
Controller off, compressor still running
The giveaway came when I switched the controller off: the compressor kept running, still pumping refrigerant, and the fans kept spinning.

A healthy controller, switched off, stops the compressor. This one couldn’t, because the part that does the stopping was stuck.
How the controller decides when the compressor runs
The controller reads a temperature probe in the box and switches the compressor through a relay. When the box warms up, the relay closes and the compressor starts. Once the box is cold enough, the relay opens and the compressor stops. On a schedule, the controller also stops the compressor for defrost, so the frost that builds up on the coil can melt off.
With the relay stuck in the on position, none of that happens. The compressor runs around the clock. It doesn’t stop when the box is cold, and it doesn’t stop for defrost. Frost keeps building on the coil until the coil is one piece of ice and air can’t get through. Then the cooler warms up with the compressor still running.
That’s why the ice was only a symptom: melt it and leave, and the coil freezes again.
Proving it with a meter
I pulled the old controller and checked it with a meter. It’s a Carel, with a 2018 date on its label. With the controller disconnected, terminals 4 and 5, the contacts of the compressor relay, should read open. The meter beeped for continuity. That relay was stuck in the on position.

Since the relay is built into the controller, the fix was a new controller.
Wiring the new one by the diagram
The replacement is a Copeland controller, a different make from the Carel, so I wired it by the diagrams: the old wiring on one side and the new controller’s terminals on the other.
One sensor lead on the old diagram, drawn as a dashed line, has no terminal on the new controller. I insulated that lead and left it unconnected.
The settings live in a hidden menu
A replacement controller has to be set up for the cooler it goes into. Setting the temperature takes one key. The rest takes some digging.
A 3-second press opens the basic menu, and a lot of settings aren’t in it. Press and hold again for 7 seconds, and a hidden menu opens with everything from the basic one plus the rest, including the defrost and fan settings. I set those before the cooler went back into service. On a cooler that froze because it skipped defrost, those are the settings you don’t want left at factory defaults.

Cycling on temperature again
Then I let the box pull down. At 37°F the compressor shut off on its own, on temperature, which is exactly what the old controller couldn’t do anymore. The cooler is cycling the way it should.
If your cooler keeps icing up
If the coil freezes again after someone melts the ice, the cause is still there. One easy check before anyone melts it a second time: does the compressor ever shut off? If it runs nonstop, have the controller and its relay tested.
Frozen coils have other causes too. A bakery’s walk-in cooler froze solid twice because its temperature was set far too low. And a replacement control can take more than plugging in: this commercial dishwasher’s universal board needed its wiring and program set for that one machine.
Commercial refrigeration repair in Torrance and across LA
Epic Star Repair handles commercial refrigeration and restaurant equipment repair in Torrance and across Los Angeles. CA BEAR registered (#A 50636), EPA Section 608 Universal certified. We quote a flat rate upfront, and the $85 service call is credited toward the repair. If your cooler is icing up or the compressor won’t shut off, call us before someone melts the ice and calls it fixed.
FAQ
Why does the evaporator coil in a commercial cooler freeze up?
A few things can do it, like a temperature set too low or a fan that isn't moving air. On this cooler the relay that switches the compressor was stuck in the on position, so the compressor ran nonstop and the coil didn't get its defrost. Frost built up until the coil was a solid block of ice.
How can you tell if the compressor relay in a cooler controller is stuck?
The first clue is a compressor that keeps running when it should be off. On this cooler it kept running after I switched the controller off. To confirm it, disconnect the controller and check the compressor contacts with a meter: they should read open. Here, terminals 4 and 5 still had continuity.
Can I just melt the ice and keep using the cooler?
It'll cool again for a while. If the reason the coil froze is still there, though, the ice comes back. Find out why it froze before you load it up again.
Is it OK to chip the ice off a frozen coil?
We don't do it. Picking at ice with a screwdriver or a knife bends fins and can puncture a tube. This cooler runs on R290, a flammable refrigerant, and its label warns against puncturing the refrigerant tubing. We melted the ice with steam instead.
Does a replacement temperature controller need to be set up?
Yes. On this one, a 3-second press opens a basic menu that's missing a lot of settings. A second press, held for 7 seconds, opens a hidden menu with the rest, including the defrost and fan settings. We set those before the cooler went back into service.
What temperature should a commercial cooler hold?
Under the California Retail Food Code, food that needs refrigeration has to stay at 41°F or below. After the repair, this cooler's compressor shut off on temperature at 37°F.
Do you repair commercial refrigerators in Torrance?
Yes. We service commercial refrigerators and coolers in Torrance and across Los Angeles, along with other restaurant equipment. The $85 service call is credited toward the repair.
Got an appliance that needs fixing? We cover LA and the Valley.
Call (213) 205-2055 or text a photo of your appliance.